Umhlanga (Reed Dance)

This past Monday it was a national holiday: Umhlanga, or Reed Dance. It is a Swazi (and Zulu) cultural event that occurs at the end of August or early September every year on a date set by the King. It is held in Ludzidzini (near Mbabane), and about 80,000 female Swazi virgins dance for the King. It started in the 1940s, and the tradition continues today.

I asked Jono if Angie and I should attend, or if we should stay in Kruger Park an extra day. Jono said, "You musn't miss it!" He and Helen also suggested that Angie and I dress up in Swazi attire. Helen even went so far as to suggest that one of her housekeepers, Mpumie, leave work for an hour (paid) and go into Siteki and help me pick out outfits for me and Angie!

Mpumie helped me pick out some fun Swazi attire and then she washed, dried, folded, and ironed our outfits because she stated, "I want you girls to look beautiful!"  She and Mavis (the head housekeeper) came by my apartment early on Monday morning (Sept 1) to dress me and Angie.



With Mavis and Mpumie




Swazi attire for the Reed Dance

We had a great time, and they enjoyed every minute of it too. Angie and I were then on our approximately 2 hour trek toward one of the royal residences. When we neared the site, we weren't exactly sure where to go. There was a very sophisticated looking your Swazi woman walking in the direction of the dance. So we asked her if we were on the correct route. She offered to direct us, so we gave her a ride. It turns out she works for the Swazi Board of Tourism. She was really sweet and gave us great directions.

Angie and I were a huge hit at the Reed Dance. Swazi people kept coming up to us and asking us for our photo! We were even interviewed by a Swazi newspaper.

Jono had told me that the ceremony is said to start at 1:00p.m., but usually doesn't get started until the very late afternoon. When the spectator stands opened at 1:30, I thought to myself, "Boy, Jono sure doesn't know what he is talking about!". And then, Angie and I waited, and waited, and waited some more. Finally at nearly FIVE in the evening, His Majesty King Mswati III and the Queen Mother arrived. I guess Jono was right after all.

The crowd roared when the King arrived. Swazis are very proud of their monarchy.

When the King was seated in his chair in the stands, Angie and I went over to take a photo. After I took his photo, he looked over, smiled, and waved at me. Angie and I thought that was hilarious.

King Mswati III

Second from left: Prime Minister of Swaziland (appointed by the King--he is not an elected official), King Mswatii III, and the Queen Mother all watching the Reed Dance.

Next, the girls paraded across the field (probably about the size of a football field in America) so he could see each girl/woman. The women are notably topless. All of them. I guess a woman's breasts are not a big deal here (and men prefer hips and thighs). So yes, there were 80,000 topless Swazi virgins dancing in front of the king. After they have all danced past him, he comes down from his "perch" and parades through the field of females to assess each girl. If he finds one he likes, he may choose her as his next wife (he currently has about 12 wives). You'll be interested to know that, although he chose a wife last year, he did not choose a wife this year!



HRH Princess Sikhanyiso dancing

Swazi princesses (with the red feathers in their hair) dancing for the King



Swazi virgins dancing for the King
 



There were over 80,000 Swazi virgins dancing

With two guys dressed in Zulu attire





Angie and I ran into the Minister of Health and the Minister of Tourism. I am supposed to meet with the Minister of Health in the next two weeks, so we can discuss eye care in Swaziland.
 

After the event was over, we headed back to Siteki via Manzini. It was dark out and we were tired and hungry. So, when we reached Manzini, we decided we had better stop and get food. We eventually got headed the wrong way down a one-way street. We both said, "Thank goodness it is dark and we are in Manzini and no one knows us!".
We ate at Nando's which is a South African fastfood chain that I had always wanted to try. It was tasty, and we were in much better spirits after some food.

Fast forward to clinic on Wednesday of this week. We were talking to Sister Senani about how we went to the Reed Dance two days prior. She gets this funny look on her face and in her monotone, very dry way says, "I heard that you girls were driving the wrong way down a one way street the other evening". (I figured she was referring to the quick "illegal" right hand turn we make on our drive to work in Siteki). She shook her head and said, "My friend saw you in Manzini (remember that is a much larger town and over 1 hour away by car) and he said that he saw Jono's car with two white females in the front seat." She said, "Yes, he saw you going the wrong way on a one-way street...and you guys were going to eat at Nando's." I was so embarrassed, although it was an honest mistake. Angie and I shared a knowing look...news travels fast in Swaziland!